Adam & Eats: River City Deli

This week I’m very excited. When I heard we have a new deli in Fort Smith, especially a New York style deli, my mouth began immediately watering. The chance to get a real pastrami on rye with spicy mustard sent me into a Pavlovian response that put the River Valley into danger of a flood.

What I found upon further investigation was so much more than a stereotypical sandwich counter. Pull on your big kid shorts, it’s time for another adventure.

Located in a corner nook of Stonewood Village is the new home of River City Deli. I could waste your time telling you the story of how this place came to be, but I won’t. If you want the full story go to their handy website and read it for yourself. Do a little legwork, for chrissakes. We are in this adventure together after all. I can’t do all the work for you.

What you find upon entering into the RCD is as far from what you are used to as possible. Sure, there are tables and chairs and employees, but the classic rock station rocking “Sweet Child o’ Mine” and the combination of local and nationally celebrated artists is breathtaking. The décor of well chosen, bright tile and paint give the place the vibe of a hip hangout rather than a white apron delicatessen.

Many, many points go on the scoreboard for atmosphere. Good job, RCD.

Next comes service. My favorite server so far is Jacky The fact that she pampered me like the Jewish mother I never had, and practically hugged me for ordering something that is off the beaten path for this area’s normal dining fare, says a lot.

Friendly, efficient, helpful, the staff at RCD is top notch. Sure, they are a little swamped these days, so food takes its time getting to the table. I don’t think they expected business to be booming as well as it is, especially given that they haven’t yet had their “Grand Opening.” But they manage just fine. I could wax poetically, spouting love ballads to the waitstaff and decorators forever, but we have food to talk about, so I’ll shut up about that other stuff and we’ll continue on to the menu.

You should be fired if you don’t order a pastrami on rye with spicy mustard at a deli. At least once. It is what you do. There are rules. Is it the best pastrami on rye in the area? You bet you’re tookus it is. I can be quoted as saying that if they offered me free pastrami sandwiches for the rest of my life in exchange for brutally murdering multiple family members, I’d ask, wielding my butter knife, who they wanted killed first.

If you happen to be so lucky, like I was, “Stairway to Heaven” will reach its climax just as you bite into your sandwich. Perfect timing.

Also, get the Latkes. These potato pancakes are the bomb in Phantoms even on the cook’s bad days. They are perfect on their own, but you can get them loaded with cheese, bacon, sour cream, scallions, and tomatoes as a little nosh (snack or appetizer) while you wait for your other food.

Speaking of waiting for food, while you wait they give you half-sour pickles. These cucumbers manage to taste like a cucumber, a sweet pickle, and a dill pickle all at the same time. They’re amazing. Jacky kept bringing me plates of them to tide me over until my sandwich arrived. She spoils me, what can I say? I ate so many, that I had to start sharing them with my Polish neighbor at the next table so as to not spoil my lunch. I’m rambling on longwindedly again.

Other dishes to try? The lox and bagel for sure. For those of you who are unfamiliar with this dish, it’s a smoked salmon sandwich with cream cheese and capers on a bagel. It’s heavenly.

If you like pasta salads, I recommend the macaroni salad as your side, although I’ve heard their potato salad is to die for. The Italian wedding soup and Matzo ball soup are also top notch. And the Reuben. Try the Reuben for sure. And the meatloaf sandwich. There’s just so many dishes I want to rave about. You’ll just have to go and try some for yourself. Be adventurous. Eat something that’s not a cheeseburger for a change.

If you haven’t eaten at the River City Deli yet, do it. This little joint is breathing a nice breath of city air into our little town’s lungs. It’s refreshing.

Be sure to tell Jacky “Hi” for me. Until next week, good eating to you and yours.