Peter begins his review of ‘white table cloth dining options’

Editor’s note: Peter Lewis, who has authored “The Friday Feast” since November, is reviewing 30 locally-owned and/or operated restaurants across five categories: American, Asian, BBQ, Mexican and Date (establishments to impress your date, spouse or both). Each Wednesday through late August, The City Wire will post Lewis’ review of two restaurants. That’s a review of 30 restaurants in 16 weeks for those keeping score at home.

Week 1: Taqueria la Guadalupana, and Las Americas Too
Week 2: The Cuban Grill and El Rodeo
Week 3: El Milagro and Restaurante Salvadoreno Norita
Week 4: Green Papaya and Pho Vietnam
Week 5: Fried Rice and Pho King
Week 6: Diamond Head 2 and Tran’s
Week 7: Yellow Umbrella and Goodson’s
Week 8: Red Rooster and Boom-A-Rang
Week 9: Lewis’ Family Restaurant and Hamburger Barn
Week 10: Big Al’s and Al’s Barbecue
Week 11: Neumeier’s Rib Room and Jerry Neel’s
Week 12: Pink Flamingo and Art’s BBQ

review by Peter Lewis

In a (somewhat) overblown fit of despair, a friend once lamented, “Fort Smith doesn’t have any white table cloth dining options open to the public.”

While there is certain truth in this remark, a categorical dismissal is a bit too much. Though not overly prevalent, there are quite a few options for those seeking a special evening for two … or three, or ten … whatever your needs and tastes require.

21 WEST
First in our detailed dissection of desirable dining decisions for dates is 21 West End.  Located at 21 N. 2nd St. in downtown Fort Smith, it was an instant success among glistened groups seeking an expensive outlet. For women, it offered (and still does, I suppose) that chance to finally channel their big city dreams while making like Carrie or Miranda and devouring fruity cocktails. Countering this were males, rediscovering the supposed classicism of the featured martinis.

As for the menu items, 21 West End is bogged down by a small kitchen. Because of this restriction, the menu is relatively small. What the menu lacks in breadth, however, is usually compensated for in deliciousness. One particular item that generally whets my appetite is the spinach salad ($6 for the base). Simplicity is the key here. The spinach is covered in feta crumbles, red onions, brown sugar, cinnamon pecans, and tossed in a raspberry vinaigrette dressing. It reaches a pitch perfect meld of sweet and sour.

Main courses at 21 West prove a bit trickier. Since the menu and kitchen is small, it is often the victim of rotation. As a result, though many a night was passed in the company of friends at 21 West, one shouldn’t expect to find items discussed on the menu. Knowledge is, of course, transient.

One item, however, that always seems to be present, though in a myriad of presentations, is the pork loin ($18). Of particular note was the cognac seared version. The pork and demi-glaze was topped with caramelized pear, a rather courageous endeavor for a chef. It was pulled off adequately. The presentation was indeed pleasant, though a bit discordant as it was served with seasonal vegetables and couscous. As befitting the incongruous décor of the restaurant, this particular pairing of side items was curious. Couscous, a staple of both the Levant and Maghreb, is often served with meat. It is, however, never served with pork, given the general predilections against such an animal in these areas. So, while it perhaps is not wholly implausible to pair such items, I did, as I mention, find it rather discordant.

Beyond this querulous niggling, much of what is produced in the kitchen at 21 West is a delight. I’ve had pleasant experiences with their salmon presentations, which, in the past, generally featured asparagus and rice as an accompaniment. So, undoubtedly, the appeal is present. It is, however, a restaurant inherently bogged down by largely extraneous factors. The unfortunate nature of the matter, is how easily these are fixed.

First, as alluded to previously, is the restaurant décor. Ostensibly an upscale eatery and bar, the presence of wicker regrettably gives the restaurant a certain air reminiscent of the backyard patio. This is not the type of image one wishes to conjure with their furniture in a fine dining establishment.

Second, and perhaps slightly more endemic, is the fluctuating dress code. The policy, at least my understanding of it, is that a shirt with a collar is required. I have witnessed, heard, and read countless stories of dismay and disgust at the enforcing of the dress code policy (a cursory glance at Trip Advisor will provide a few damning stories). What is galling about the situation in question is not the presence of a code, but its enforcement. It seems that preference is given some and denied others based on the whim of a certain fawning gentlemen.

A certain level of tact and manners is always expected in the staff of a fine dining restaurant. This is hard to achieve, or expect from the rest of the staff, when those at the top do not maintain that level of courtesy. Obsequious impudence can easily ruin any dining experience. Restaurants, like nations, function as an entity. So, no matter how marvelous the servers or chefs, they will never be able to repair a path of discord forged by the face of the restaurant.

BELLA ITALIA
Luckily, there is a paragon for which area restaurateurs like 21 West to aspire: Bella Italia.

Tucked away in the historic district at 407 N. 8th St. in a old Victorian house cum restaurant, this fine Italian restaurant is simply one of the best restaurants the river valley has to offer. There are drawbacks to the location, of course, but the experience is superb. From the dimly lit bar to the polite exuberance of the proprietor, Mohamed, everything about the restaurant exudes the intimacy usually reserved for a home.

Restaurants are more than just environment, of course. It is necessary to produce palatable dining options for the patrons. This is certainly achieved at Bella Italia. Upon my numerous visits, I’ve yet to experience a dish I would consider anywhere near sub-par. So, it seems a bit silly to recount all that I’ve tasted at the hands of Bella’s capable chefs. Instead, in a bid to make the praise easier to digest, I’ll borrow from Nick Hornby and resort to a top five list.

Top Five Things I Like About Bella Italia
1. The specials that are always on special: It is a running joke of sorts I have with friends, but it seems as if the proprietor is a bit too money conscious with his menu items. So, instead of plucking down pennies on new menus with these “specials” featured, the servers get to relay them by rote to each diner. While many might see this in the wrong light, I think it’s great because it shows the restaurant is focused on the most important thing: the finished product. It’s refreshing to experience a place that is concerned more about your palate than your luxury.

2. The fillets: My short list of places in Fort Smith with outstanding steaks is small, and Bella makes the cut. While the Filet Agilio, is no longer as agile as it once was, it is certainly tasty. And, with the countless options available, it is the tip of Bella’s filet iceberg. You can have them with caramelized onions, bleu cheese, topped with bernaise … you name it, they can do it.  And to perfection, I might add.

3. The one man band performing in the bar: I’m not sure who this fellow is, but the novelty of sipping a Peroni while listening to him knock out an Elton John cover is a distinct experience. There aren’t many opportunities to hear lounge music whilst nursing a cocktail, revel in those chances you have. Trust me.

4. The patio: As I continue on my slide toward adulthood, I am more and more apt to take opportunities to be outdoors. One of the true pleasures in dining (or drinking) is the ability to partake under the open skies. With strung lights adorning the fenced in patio and overhanging trees, you will be hard pressed to find a more enjoyable patio experience in Fort Smith. While patios exist in other bars and restaurants, they are inevitably dragged down by the presence of passing cars, riotous revelers, or general voluminous conversation by other patrons. Furthermore, isn’t it a treat to have your vino and fettuccine with your date al fresco? How else, but when the moon hits her/his eye, will you know that it’s amore?

5. The bruschetta: It might come first to the table, but it brings up the rear on this list.  While variations of bruschetta date back hundreds of years, the version that has become exceedingly popular in America is the one vended at Bella Italia. This particular version consists of sliced (French) bread topped with mozzarella, fresh basil, and tomatoes. If there were a better way to start a meal, or end a column, it has slipped my attention.

An explainer note from Peter
Having such cultural diversity within easy reach is one of the many dining pleasures in the River Valley. As we continue to explore the different cooking styles throughout the area, I hope it will spur you into trying something new. Broadening horizons is as old as time itself.

You can reach Peter at [email protected]