Early Berlin

300 W. Dickson St.

Fayetteville

three stars

For lunch, the food at Early Berlin is good, authentic, unique and expensive.

This was the first German restaurant – other than a couple in Germany – that our reviewer has tried, so we aren’t that familiar with German fare.

The former D-Lux Cafe, a Dickson Street watering hole for more than half a century, was converted last November by chef/owner Peter Steinhart to Fayetteville’s only German restaurant. Steinhart also owns the 1936 Club next door.

When it comes to German cuisine, Steinhart knows what he’s doing. He hails from the Baden state of Germany, near that country’s border with France and Switzerland. He trained as a chef for three years in Germany and two years in Switzerland. Steinhart tied last year for second best chef in Northwest Arkansas in a poll of chefs conducted by the Business Journal.

We started out with a half order (translation: “huge bowl”) of South German onion soup ($3.25). This stuff was delicious but was a tongue scorcher that still reminded us of the experience two days later. The waitress informed us that the soup is kept in a large pot and heated just prior to serving. We hear Steinhart prides himself on possessing no microwave ovens in his restaurants, but we wish there had been a timer on the soup pot to let him know when it was done.

For an entree, we were tempted by the “hassenpfeffer mit spatzle und bayrisch kraut” – that’s rabbit to you and me – but childhood memories of Elmer Fudd and Bugs Bunny cartoons made it just a little too painful for us. Besides, the description also sounded a little suspect: “One of Germany’s most famous dishes. Jugged rabbit braised in wine and spices served with spatzle and Bavarian cabbage.” We’re still a little confused about the “jugged” rabbit, but we think this is what Elmer Fudd had in mind. A half order was $8.50. A full order: $14.50.

Being beef- and chicken-eating Arkies, we opted instead for the “sauerbraten mit tiroler knodel.” That translates to marinated beef pot roast, Tyrolean dumplings, red cabbage and applesauce ($8.50 for a half order; $13.50 for a full order). This dish was very good and different enough from grandma’s pot roast to make it interesting for us.

For dessert, we had lemon bars ($3.50) but didn’t realize until the dish arrived that it was the same lemon-bar dessert Steinhart serves at the 1936 Club that we’ve had before (and liked quite well, by the way). The lemon bars are covered with a strawberry sauce and accompanied by a vanilla Haagen Dazs ice cream bar coated in chocolate and smothered in butterscotch sauce.

Early Berlin also offers appetizers, salads, vegetarian dishes and a wide selection of German beers and wines.

Overall, the meal was good. Next time, we’ll try that wascally hassenpfeffer.

Early Berlin is open for lunch Tuesday through Friday and for dinner Tuesday through Saturday.