Peter likes it hot and gets good service

 

Editor’s note: Peter Lewis, who has authored “The Friday Feast” since November, is reviewing 30 locally-owned and/or operated restaurants across five categories: American, Asian, BBQ, Mexican and Date (establishments to impress your date, spouse or both). Each Wednesday through late August, The City Wire will post Lewis’ review of two restaurants. That’s a review of 30 restaurants in 16 weeks for those keeping score at home.

Week 1: Taqueria la Guadalupana, and Las Americas Too
Week 2: The Cuban Grill and El Rodeo
Week 3: El Milagro and Restaurante Salvadoreno Norita
Week 4: Green Papaya and Pho Vietnam

FRIED RICE
With another week gone by, we have a chance to explore the cuisine of another country: Thailand.

While every other country in southeast Asia was colonized by European powers, the land of the free, that is Thailand, was not. So, while there are culinary influences from other Asian countries (namely China & Laos, especially in the north), Thai cuisine is largely devoid of any unnatural outside influences.

In terms of geography, Thailand is very diverse. Roughly the size of California in land mass, the north of the nation is dominated by mountains while the central portion is quite flat and characterized by a large river valley that flows into the Gulf of Thailand.  Largely separate from the majority of the land mass is the narrow Malay peninsula.  This diversity lends itself to the formation of different culinary paradigms within the larger national cuisine. 

To thoroughly explore Thai cuisine make a visit to the ladies running the unfortunately named Fried Rice, located at 3758 Midland Blvd.

In Thai cuisine a balance of “elements” is often the goal. The chef will try to create dishes that equally balance spiciness, sourness, sweetness and saltiness. Though it should be known that the balance between the four is a difficult task and not always accomplished with great success. One such dish that is overly weighted to one side of the elements is Phat Phet. At only $5.99 it, like all the dishes at Fried Rice, is quite a steal. Be forewarned, however, that this plate is unnaturally spicy. Curry is used heavily in many Thai dishes, but the curry paste used in this stir-fried dish of meat and vegetables is not for the faint of heart. My forehead is sweating just thinking about it. And yet, I’m oddly craving it (Spicy food tricks our brain into releasing endorphins, thus making people both “addicted” to spicy food and quite happy when they’re eating it.).

Another equally spicy delight is the Phat Phrik/Pad Prik (Thai, it seems, is an exasperatingly difficult language). The prik/phrik refers to small hot chiles in the dish.  I’m told that they are, indeed, the hottest chilies in Thai cuisine. The dish is a fairly basic beef stir fry with shallots, onion, garlic, mint, basil and an array of sauces, albeit with a very nonbasic kick.

If, perhaps, curry is not something that induces saliva, then I would suggest trying the Thai fried rice (Khao Pad). Like most of the cuisine in southeast Asia, rice is an obvious staple. What separates Thai fried rice (and the cuisine in general), is the heavy utilization of fresh herbs and spices. This is readily evident in the Khao Pad. With fresh coriander, garlic, onions and the pervasive fish sauce, this melange of fried long stem rice and meat is quite the feast.

While I could continue down this path of the wonderful things at Fried Rice, it is unnecessary. Take a plunge and try something new. Each visit has led to new culinary delights, never once have I been let down.

PHO KING
Just a few hundred miles away in distance, the cuisines of Thailand and Vietnam are very far apart. Though there are natural commonalities like the heavy use of rice, fish sauce, and vegetables, the most glaring differences lie in the spices. Curry and chilies, ever present in Thai cuisine, is largely non-existent in Vietnamese dining (except for the far south). Instead, Vietnamese dishes rely on fresh ingredients and mild, complimentary dipping sauces.

As I’ve mentioned before, the river valley has been blessed with a plethora of great Vietnamese establishments. One such is the delightfully labeled Phở King (pronunciation guide as already been provided here). Situated across the street from Central Mall at 1217 Waldron Road in Fort Smith, it is a wonderful Vietnamese restaurant.

Much of Vietnamese cuisine has been shaped by outside influences. While the northern parts are much more traditional, Chinese and French influence abound in the cuisine of southern Vietnam. Since it was mainly those southerns that fled to our shores, it is only natural then to have such obvious similarities within separate worlds of cuisine.

One of the many attributes of the establishment is the array of beverages. Sadly, there are no alcoholic beverages served yet, but there are fresh squeezed juices. In addition to those, there is also a Vietnamese soy milk. While I wouldn’t go so far as to suggest it outright, it is an interesting concoction to be certain.

Though the décor is far from intoxicating, the prices are quite fare, especially given the central real estate. Never one to be taken in by atmospherics, the food is the key and Pho King has it in spades. Deliciousness abounds. 

The signature dish is definitely on par with the best in the city. It is the noodles, however, that set Pho King apart. In particular, the crispy noodle dishes are outstanding.  Though of distinct Chinese origin, they are a singular treat. You’re served a heaping plate of those aforementioned noodles topped with meat and vegetables in a rich sauce that serves to soften the lower rungs of noodles.

Equally delicious are the vermicelli dishes. Though the word used for the noodle denotes Italian origin, the noodle has a long history in Asia as well and differs significantly than the traditional Italian noodle. At Pho King, the noodle is used in different stir fry dishes to great effect.

The largest feather in Pho King’s cap was the service. While it is rare to find unfriendly service in family owned businesses (it’s their livelihood after all), the winning smiles and conscientious service exceeded even my own high threshold.

An explainer note from Peter
Having such cultural diversity within easy reach is one of the many dining pleasures in the River Valley. As we continue to explore the different cooking styles throughout the area, I hope it will spur you into trying something new. Broadening horizons is as old as time itself.

Peter can be reached at [email protected]