The Curious Case of Cornerstone Cuisine

review and photos by Peter Lewis

Like Mr. Button, the title character from the Oscar nominated picture, Goodson’s has lived a varied and unique existence.

While the river city has certainly witnessed a myriad of locales and establishments with the Goodson name, this particular manifestation of Americana at 3501 Old Greenwood Road seems to be thriving.

NIGHT SHIFT
With Southside High School just beyond the back door and the headquarters of Arkansas Best Corp. a Major League stone’s throw away, it is perfectly situated to thrive during the lunch hour. For our purposes, of course, I suggest exercising patience and saving your visit for the evening hours.

There are many benefits to this diligence. First, you will not need to fret about returning to work on a full belly. In this economy, we must take as many precautions as possible to prevent falling asleep at the office. Second, you’ll run the possibility of having the lovely company of Ms. Sara Jade Strassle as your server. And this, my friends, is a very important part of your evening.

My own favorite ploy while dining at Goodson’s is having Ms. Strassle surprise me with something from the menu for dinner.  This little device provides both a surprise and great food, which are admittedly two of my favorite things. However, out of sympathy for those less keen on removing themselves from determining their dinner, an advisory menu has been concocted.

Begin with a nice long neck of Budweiser. This is never a wrong way to begin a meal.  Ahead 1-0 in the game of life, widen the lead by ordering the Grilled Chicken Sandwich ($7.50). There is something wholly bliss inducing about a combination of melted swiss cheese, grilled chicken, and crispy bacon. Especially when it is on a wheat bun.

If there are those among us who are trying to abide by a kosher and/or vegetarian diet, you would be wise to sample the Goodson’s Tortellini ($11.95). These cheese filled delights are prepared in a tomato basil cream sauce with mushrooms and sweet onions.  While perhaps not conducive to those dieting, it is a rich pleasure in which to partake on a Friday evening.

Though it could be discounted as frivolous, a foray into the land of Oklahoma to visit a casino is certainly adventurous. Gather up your quarters and head to the Choctaw Casino in Pocola. Lady Luck is rumored to be a fickle lass. Spend wisely.

We have to go with a 7 out of 10 on the PeterMeter.

PIZZA HOG
Aching for something with not only slightly more carbs but tomato sauce as well? Leave the husband and children at home if you must and head to Jim’s Razorback Pizza. This is the latest addition to the culinary corner at Old Greenwood and Gary Streets. It is an establishment that most adeptly fills a void in river valley dining.

This local chain has been expanding quite rapidly of late. Naturally the décor is heavily sports related, with an emphasis on the Hogs. While the pig-centric walls are an obvious inducement to the many Hog lovers in the river valley area, the walls are also paradoxically accentuated with various chotchkies extolling both Northside and Southside High Schools.

Collegial and preparatory preferences aside, Jim’s serves surprisingly tasty pies. When you add to this a few reasonably priced draft beers ($2), this is most certainly an establishment worthy of your time.

While there are a variety of pies, pastas, and salads from which to choose, you wouldn’t be remiss to order any number of items. However, for the right adventure you should sample a thin crust signature pizza. Try the Super Supreme. While somewhat heavy on the sauce, this is but a niggling complaint on an otherwise wonderful meal. Prices on these pies vary from $10, $14, and $19 depending on the size option you choose. I’d suggest an extra large. Nothing beats (cold) leftover pizza on a Saturday morning.

Another chapter in the storied crosstown rivalry between the Grizzlies and Rebels will be penned this Friday evening. After dinner at Jim’s venture northward towards the University of Arkansas at Fort Smith campus. It would be advisable to make haste, these heated games tend to pack the arena to the rafters. If there is a better way to follow up a meal at such a sport centric place, I’ll bow for forgiveness.

Let’s go with a 6 out of 10 on the PeterMeter for this adventure.

Know your Peter
Born and raised in Fort Smith, Peter Lewis is a graduate of the University of Texas. Prior to returning to the Fort Smith area, Peter spent the past year as a bartender living abroad and traveling. He’s difficult to track down during the weekends, or so says his parole officer.

Contact Peter at [email protected]