Adam & Eats: Las Americas Too

Editor’s note: Adam Brandt is a graduate from the Cobra Kai School of Culinary Callousness, where he received their highest award, the Red Apron of Merciless Eating. Aside from eating and talking about eating, he makes pots, paintings, prints, books, photographs, and generally, a big mess. He has been the studio assistant at Mudpuppy Pottery for almost nine years and is attending a local university in a desperate attempt to earn a biology degree.

For the past little while we’ve been visiting places that specialize in what can be considered American cuisine. This week, I felt it was an excellent time to delve a little south of the border to experience some other “American” fare, Central American in fact. Of the El Salvadorian variety. And boy, have I got a treat for you.

Located next to the Lost Beach on South Zero Street is the current location of Las Americas Too. Why Too, you ask? Because the original location was on Midland in front of the Terry Motel.

The old location is gone, but the new place is still very much alive and kickin’. This small location still serves up a combination of Tex-Mex and traditional El Salvadorian food. Brightly lit, comfortable crowded, and cozy, this little joint is waiting to fill you up with tasty, savory goodies. The staff is very friendly and attentive. Your glass, salsa bowl or chip basket is never empty for very long with this crew around. The only negative thing to say about the dining atmosphere is: Do not sit near the kitchen in the middle of the summer. You’re likely to leave drenched in sweat.

How’s the food, you say? Well, the Tex-Mex dishes are pretty ordinary. You’re just as likely to get the same quality tacos or burritos at La Huerta or El Lorito. What sets Las Americas apart from the rest of our local Latin restaurants is the home cooking they offer.

In particular, their pupusas. These wonderful little corn pancakes come stuffed with an assortment of flavor adventure inducing ingredients. The pork and cheese (Rebuelta) is probably my favorite, but the cheese and loroco (the edible flowers of a Central American vine) is a very close second. Both offer a splendid layering of savory flavors from the stuffing and the bittersweet flavors from the corn.

All of the pupusas come with a garnish of pickled cabbage, carrots, cilantro, and chiles that, when combined with a bite of the pupusa of choice, is both refreshing and filling. It is the type of food you can eat until you can’t get up from the table, you are so full. They are truly heavenly.

Another dish that pops out from the menu are the Salvadorian Tamales, with their kick-ass banana leaf-wrapped plantain/chicken/chile ninja flavor attack. Also, the enchiladas are surprisingly complex flavor-wise and texturally.

I wish I had a bad dish to report, but I have not had one at Las Americas as of yet. On my next visit, I will definitely try the Paella Valenciana. I always forget that they offer paella, which is a strange dish for these parts, so I have yet to try it. (Can any of you loyal readers vouch for it? Let me know via my email or in the comments section, please.)

Well, that’s all for this week. If you haven’t eaten at Las Americas Too yet, you should make it a point to visit them in the near future. You’re sure to be pleased and will more than likely make them one of your regular spots when considering dinner plans.

Until next week, good eating to you and yours.

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