Bubba’s Barbecue Gets a Five-star Rating (Business Lunch)

Bubba’s Barbecue
60 Kingshighway, Eureka Springs

Bubba’s Barbecue has something that’s lost on the homogenized national chains. The Eureka Springs restaurant doesn’t have to manufacture a sense of fun — it just is.

A classic roadside barbecue joint complete with a sit-down counter and sassy waitresses, Bubba’s belongs in a scene from “Smokey and the Bandit,” one where Burt Reynolds could trade barbs and grin with hot sauce all over his mustache. We didn’t see Burt on this trip, but it wouldn’t have surprised us either way.

From the insertion of Elly May Clampett into its portrait of “The Last Supper” to the eatery’s random assortment of odd collectibles, Bubba’s has a sense of humor that’s second only to its succulent sauce.

Our duo dragged in a little late, but Bubba’s was still busy even after the lunch rush. We got in orders for sandwiches and classic iced teas before our server summed up the landscape:

“Boys, if you ever walk into a barbecue joint and see skinny waitresses,” she said, “turn around and walk back out.”

We stayed and discovered that despite all the fun, Bubba’s food is serious business.

Our first reviewer ordered the grande version of the pork shoulder sandwich ($5 regular, $6 large).

Though he’s never made a sojourn to Memphis, North Carolina or even Kansas City, he’s sure Bubba’s porcine sandwich would rival those at historic or famous joints in those towns, he said.

His buddy went for the marinated pork tenderloin ($6) with slaw and hot sauce on top. It was the cheapest “flight” to Memphis he can remember.

Our server up-sold us twice: first to chocolate bourbon pecan pie ($4.75) and then a buck more to go a la mode. We also learned that the house specialty is a half ($12.50) or whole rack ($21.50) of baby back ribs. The dinners come with beans slaw, bread and butter.

We were also intrigued by the Cuban pork sandwich ($6), which comes slathered with spicy salsa, avocado, onion and cilantro on a French roll. We’ll try both on future trips.

We’re admitted barbecue snobs, but this place makes the grade.