Neumeier?s Gets 3 Stars (Business Lunch)

Neumeier’s Rib Room
817 Garrison Ave.
Fort Smith

We might’ve never known about the Rib Room in downtown Fort Smith if a city native hadn’t insisted we go there for a business lunch recently.

Our reviewer was impressed with the sheer quantity of rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia hanging on the walls and from the ceiling. Not that any of it was museum quality, but it was of the same ilk that our barbecue and classic rock connoisseur would hang in his own restaurant, if he had one.

The music that pumped through the tavern reflected the same taste. He heard everything from the Rolling Stones to Rainbow, which was great, but it made it difficult to discuss the finer points of business, he said.

Our native, an old hat at the Rib Room, took a ribbing from the waitress on everything from his daughter’s wedding to how many napkins he would need. Our reviewer said that sort of down-home touch is an absolute must for an establishment to qualify as a genuine Arkansas barbecue joint.

Following the native’s lead, our reviewer went for a small order of ribs served up dry with a side of slaw and fries ($10) and sweet tea ($1.80).

The ribs, which can also be served wet, were of the smaller baby-back variety — perfect for lunch. Our reviewer isn’t used to “Memphis style” dry ribs, so these were quite a treat. The Rib Room’s dry rub was spicy, slightly chewy and an honest to goodness rub without lofty aspirations to be froufrou franchised fare.

The ribs themselves were, well, a little dry, he said. The meat came off the bone good enough, but he didn’t think they were cooked the preferred way — slow and low. Though he liked them served dry, he couldn’t help but wonder if they would’ve been better wet.

The sauce served on the side was like the rub: honest workin’ man’s sauce. It was certainly not store-bought, but he found it lacking that certain touch that tips the scales all the way from mediocrity to marvelous, he said.

The sides were good, he said. The fries were thin and the slaw was tasty.

He plans to go back to the Rib Room as soon as he can.