Peter punches his first “10”

review and photos by Peter Lewis

Smack in the middle of Fort Smith, there is a small dining establishment with loads of character, and great food. Fortunately, there is no tip toeing around the establishment’s name. It is simply Phở  Vietnam (just remember the proper pronunciation is paramount).

At 2214 Rogers Ave., this place is the walking (stationary?) definition of a “mom & pop” joint. Mom handles the cooking while pop, as the grumbling garçon, handles the tables.  It is a truly ironic touch to have a mumbling man as a server.  After several visits, “hot sauce” is about the only two words I’ve successfully understood.

Despite his enunciation and diction problems, he is a truly avuncular soul (As proof, when queried about a buck hanging on the wall, our server hit a button and the deer broke out into a fifteen minute serenade. We were treated to such hits as: Suspicious Minds, Rawhide, On the Road Again, Friends in Low Places, and Sweet Home Alabama. Who says there isn’t live entertainment in Fort Smith?)

Each meal is bookended with two things: jasmine tea at the fore and a surprise desert at the aft. As for the meals themselves, there are plenty of options to cater to your particular dietary mood. Before even deciding what you might like for your main course, order the pork dumplings for an appetizer (4 for $2-3).  They are quite tasty and are the perfect route to prepare the paunch for what’s to come.

There is a decidedly French tinge to a lot of the food offerings at Phở Vietnam. As you well know, those gastronomic Gauls were colonial rulers of much of southeast Asia for the good part of two centuries so this influence is quite natural if not expected. A decidedly delicious melange of cultural cuisine can be had in the French style Vietnamese sandwiches offered by the establishment. They are cheap ($2-$5 depending on the sandwich) and flavorful. The Vietnamese word for this type of sandwich is “Bánh mì.” These toasted sandwiches consist of onions, cilantro, pickled carrots, meat, and a type of soy sauce. At the suggestion of the grumbling garçon, I tried the chicken sandwich and was quite pleased with the choice.

Not a fan of the yardbird? There are a number of options from which to choose. Take, for instance, the shrimp and beef vermicelli ($6). It is a delectable dish that pleases both the eye upon presentation and the mouth upon ingestion.

Amongst my adventures dining in the wonderful River Valley, I’ve noticed a distinct deficit of vegetarian options. While not wholly ignored, this sub-set of diners might often struggle to procure quality food to meet their dietary requirements. In general, it seems that the requirements are met more easily in Asian dining establishments. To take it a step further, Phở Vietnam is hands down the most vegetarian friendly restaurant I’ve yet to encounter. So, lettuce lovers, foliage fiends, and friends of frondescence, take heart. There is a sympathetic soul in town with a multitude of meatless meals.

One word of note, since this restaurant is a “mom & pop” joint, if you choose to dine with a large group during an especially busy hour, they naturally seem to struggle to coordinate the meal presentation. So, misremembering manners, it might be best to dig in.

Your evening continues right across the road. No, not at the Minh Ngoc Jewelry Store.  Look the other way. Knight Times Tattoo at 2207 Rogers Ave. What’s more adventurous than a Friday night tattoo. Just remember to keep your alcohol intake to a minimum before walking over. I hear it not only thins your blood, but somehow impairs your judgment. Strange. May I even be so bold to suggest a tat? After serious research, I’ve been told by the finest of anonymous sources that the rage this year in Hollywood are forearm tattoos emblazoned with “www.thecitywire.com” in the finest of blue ink.  Though I’m not one for propagating the following of trends, I assure you that you wouldn’t be remiss to follow this hottest of trends.

Forearm smarting after getting inked? Why not cruise on down Rogers to Braums on the 4400 block? Just tell Elijah or Martika that you “want what Bob gets” and they’ll whip you up quite a treat. That cold cup of mix is sure to ease the smarting arm.

10 out of 10 on the Petermeter Scale of Adventure

SALVADORAN SPOT
Your second option for the evening is equally as exciting, though perhaps not nearly as likely to leave permanent physical marks. There will, however, be permanent metaphysical imprintation. To begin your dining adventure, head down that marvelous Midland Avenue to the 2900 block. There you will find (in a building that once housed a White Spot, if I’m not mistaken), like the name implies, a sensational Salvadoran restaurant. The quarters are fairly small, but the service is quite friendly and the food is quite good.

For your beverage, try an agua de jamaica (ah-gu-wah de Hi-May-Kah). This agua fresca is made from dried hibiscus flowers and is a veritable delight for those with a thirst. Pinning down an exact taste is difficult to do, but I would venture a comparison to a very mild cranberry juice. Try it for yourself. It’s worth it.

To begin your meal, you might sample the pupusas. For those accustomed to the pupusas at Las Americas on Zero, you might be surprised to find these quite a bit larger though equally delicious. They are cheap ($1-$2) and three are about enough for a meal, unless you are a particularly hearty eater. For another appetizer option, you could try the “yuca con chicharrones.” Like the familiar potato, the yuca plant is both a root and a tuber. It is alternately known, amongst other things, as cassava or manioc depending on the part of the world you happen to find yourself. And, quite amazingly, it is the third largest source of carbohydrates for human food in the world (it is the dietary staple throughout much of western Africa). So, branch out and try some fried root with fried pork skin. This particular appetizer will set you back five dollars, but is well worth it in the name of culinary adventure. Your food is set upon curtido, a combination of pickled cabbage, onion, and carrots.

For an interesting twist on an appropriated American staple, try the fajitas ($8-$10).  There mix of grilled veggies and meat were surprisingly satisfying. They are accompanied by the requisite rice, beans, and salad (it is common to hear this usage in Hispanic eateries. Don’t misinterpret this usage. The question being asked is if you would like lettuce, tomato, etc in addition to the rice and beans for your fajitas). The most interesting part about this particular dish is the tortilla. And, no I didn’t mistype. They bring you one giant tortilla for your fajitas. While those less adventurous might consider this an obstacle to enjoying their meal, it is far from it. The great thing about a tortilla is that it’s easy to pare down. So go right ahead and rip the tortilla to manageable pieces if you wish or create a large fajita burrito if you wish. No one will mind.

After dinner, switch cultural gears and lace up some dancing shoes. Chubby Carrier and The Bayou Swamp Band will be laying down the party at The Hanging Judge Saloon at 301 Garrison Ave. Laying down the party is no misnomer either, friend. My first introduction to the Zydeco band was in a smoky Beale Street bar at a too early age. It was like seeing a twilight zone carnival. The image of his washboard player prancing around in elastic tights, knee high furry boots, a floppy straw hat and without a shirt is forever etched into my memory. Haven’t seen the band in years, but if they were half as fun as they were that night so long ago, I can assure you that you’ll want to be there. Tickets are $12.

8 out of 10 on the Petermeter Scale of Adventure

Know your Peter
Born and raised in Fort Smith, Peter Lewis is a graduate of the University of Texas. Prior to returning to the Fort Smith area, Peter spent the a year as a bartender living abroad and traveling. He’s also a frequent contributor to Half Broke Hotel. Although he’s afraid his mother will find out, Peter is a staunch advocate of Speed Humps.

Contact Peter at [email protected]