Good food is all in the name

review and photos by Peter Lewis

There haven’t been any scientific studies I’m aware of that examine the correlation between the success of a restaurant in comparison to its appellation. If there are any studies out there, I have yet to see them. Despite this, I’ll offer my thesis: If a restaurant is named for/after a person, then it has a higher likelihood of being great (if not successful).

Just glancing at Fort Smith restaurants we can see the possible validity of this modest proposal. There is of course Rolando’s, George’s, and Jim’s Razorback Pizza. And for those with a memory that stretches back into that lost decade known as the 90’s, there was, of course, the inimitable Juanita’s on Garrison. Then there are the dual Joe’s (Pizza Pasta on Rogers & Just Call Me Joe’s on 74th) of Fort Smith that I’ve yet to visit, but both seem to be quite busy.

GOOD & GREASY
So, for your Friday night let me add to this veritable pantheon of pabulum by suggesting you visit Bob & Ellie’s Drive-In at 6500 U.S. 271 S. in Fort Smith. This is a greasy spoon, but in my world that’s never a pejorative only a positive. The folks at Bob & Ellie’s know their way around a flat-top, I promise you. And with a menu the size of a Dickens’ novel, there are plenty of options for all diners, from tots to geriatrics.

For your Friday evening it might be prudent to flip the accepted order of dining events.  Start with dessert and order a chocolate shake. There are an inordinate amount of options and the night is young, so if you want to test the waters of adventure, make a mix with some candy as well.

In between straw slurps on the shake, inform your server that you’ll be having the Patty Melt. With the thick beef patty wedged between two pieces of toasted rye and behatted with grilled onions and melted swiss, it is indeed an American ode to simplistic perfection. This immaculate concoction is shepherded by a flock of hand-cut French fries. Taking this path will illustrate just how wise a (wo)man you really are.

A bit timid about biting bovine? Try the beans and cornbread. No, not the jump blues tune, but the actual vittles. You won’t find a more sustaining sustenance.

Most dishes are around the $5 range so Bob & Ellie’s won’t be putting a pinch on your pocketbook ($7.69 for a small shake, patty melt, and fries).

After your evening’s repast, cruise south on 271. On your right, just before reaching the Interstate 540 interchange you’ll see El Far West in what once housed the City Limit Club. This Hispanic dance hall doesn’t always start hopping until later in the evening, but drop on by for a visit and kick back some cold Budweiser. Don’t mind the security guard, he’s just a precautionary measure.

8 out of 10 on the PeterMeter Scale of Adventure

VEGGIES & GHOSTS
Dance halls and diners not your style? Hop on over to 8909 Rogers Ave. and check out El Zarape. This restaurant is of a different cloth than the one I prefer visiting for my hankerings for Mexican cuisine. Despite this, it certainly has a multitude of benefits. For one, there is great service. The last time I had my water glass refilled more frequently or with greater flare was about 15 years ago in a Houston country club. And you certainly won’t run short of chips and salsa. Which, if you eat enough of them, you can just go ahead and save your meal for lunch tomorrow. Just a thought.

If you are, however, interested in eating your meal then let me suggest something out of the ordinary: vegetarian. While opting for a vegetarian plate might not be so wild for some, I imagine the majority of us rarely test meatless options in restaurants. It certainly can be a delight, so give it a shot and order the vegetarian combo A ($5.49). This particular plate comes with a chalupa (a tostada piled high w/veggies and cheese), a cheese enchilada, and refried beans.  

Can’t give up the meat? Try the combination dinner #4. It comes with two tacos (meat of your choice), one enchilada (your choice), and chili con queso. This will surely fill the void if meat is your desire this evening.

Filled to the brim with tortillas and cheese? No better way to follow that than with some cocktails at the Village Pub. This neighborhood bar is located at 3820 Meandering Way.  To get there just head east on Rogers and hook a left at Meandering Way. This low-key establishment will be featuring the live music of Grey Ghost. So, order up a couple Bully Wheats and enjoy the night.

4 out of 10 on the PeterMeter Scale of Adventure

Know your Peter
Born and raised in Fort Smith, Peter Lewis is a graduate of the University of Texas. Prior to returning to the Fort Smith area, Peter spent the a year as a bartender living abroad and traveling. Peter thinks everybody funny. Now you funny, too.

Contact Peter at [email protected]