Adam & Eats: Cuban Grill

by The City Wire staff ([email protected]) 88 views 

This week we head from the northeast to the southeast. From New York to Cuba. I had been hearing mutterings about a Cuban restaurant for a while now, but never managed to make the time to make a visit. This week, we make the time and are surprised by the stark difference between the outside of the building and the inside.

Located on top of the hill in Van Buren, on Fayetteville Road, is the conspicuous Cuban Grill. I’m not going to lie, the place doesn’t look too inviting. Shabby might be a good word to describe it. Shady even. But once you muster up the courage to go in, you’ll be surprised at how different the inside is from the outside.

I had forgotten Cuba’s love of white linen. The inside is bright white. Walls, tablecloths, the whole nine. Atop this sea of white is the flagship Cubana. All things Cuba line the shell. The place resembles your grandmothers house if she just happened to be their director of tourism. Flags, cigars, rum, you name it. It’s like a Cuban pride parade, but still somehow manages to be tasteful. There’s even a hall tree right next to the China cabinet. The staff is friendly and efficient, but like most family restaurants, they take their sweet time in making sure everything is done well. So, in effect, it’s not fast food by any means.

Being good Cubans, there’s plenty of pork on the menu, but steak, chicken, and shrimp definitely have their place as well. I was a little disappointed to see hot dogs, chicken nuggets, and burgers on the menu, but kids can be picky eaters, so what are you going to do?

As for me, I went straight for the Cuban tacos (corn tortillas filled with slow cooked pork, avocado, lettuce, cheese, tomatoes, and sour cream). I had it on good authority they were excellent and I was by no means disappointed. The pork was some of the best I’ve had in ages, if you don’t count the pigs my friend’s dad smoked a few months back. That was the best pork I’ve ever eaten, but this is coming up a very close second.

It was a little disappointing to see lettuce and “fiesta-style” cheese on them, but the pork over shadowed these faults. It definitely lost them points in the grand scale of things to see they have Americanized some of their classic traditional dishes for us gringos. Tsk, tsk. But, I digress.

The rice is the best around. Normally rice at Central American restaurants comes up wanting, but this arroz delivers. The black beans are also top notch.

My favorite thing here has got to be the “media noche” (con pollo). Media noche literally means “midnight” and this aptly named sandwich is perfect for those slightly inebriated midnight food runs. This hoagie is stuffed with chicken, in this case, ham, cheese, tomato, lettuce, mayo, and avocado. Holy crap it’s good, even if you aren’t trashed on homemade rum.

Other stars on the menu have got to be the monstrous Caribbean nachos, the picadillo cubano, and the tostada habenera, which despite its name won’t burn your eyeballs out. For dessert, I recommend the homemade flan. It’s heavenly. With a cherry on top.

If you haven’t worked up the courage to try the Cuban Grill yet, it’s about time you did so. You’re bound to be pleased.

Until next week, good eating to you and yours.