Adam & Eats: Gringo’s

Editor’s note: Adam Brandt is a graduate from the Cobra Kai School of Culinary Callousness, where he received their highest award, the Red Apron of Merciless Eating. Aside from eating and talking about eating, he makes pots, paintings, prints, books, photographs, and generally, a big mess. He has been the studio assistant at Mudpuppy Pottery for almost nine years and is attending a local university in a desperate attempt to earn a biology degree.

Do you know what is worse than having a bad week? I do. It is seeking comfort food and not being comforted by it. If you really want to add insult to injury, top the restaurant experience off with incurable heartburn.

Way out, at the far eastern end of Rogers Avenue is the location of Gringo’s. It’s a tex-mex joint that has been around these parts for ages.

The building is located on the edge of a lake that is fed by the mighty Arkansas River. This has got to be the explanation for all of the stuffed waterfowl that decorate the interior of the building. Otherwise, the decorations make no sense. It has got to be the lake. Please tell me it has to do with the lake. Other than the ducks, the place has the feel of a restaurant that serves tex-mex food. Chile pepper lights? Check. Sparkly sombrero? Check. Corona sign? Check. And we’re good to go. Bring on the cheese dip.

I can forgive hokey décor in a restaurant like this, it comes with the territory ‘round these parts. What bugs me is awkward service. It wasn’t bad service by any means, it was just strange. My server acted like it was weird that I was there. Which, in turn, made me feel weird for being there. And then of course there is the length of time you wait for your order. It takes forever. I can understand it if they are hand making every little morsel from scratch, but not for a giant deep fried jalapeno popper that ultimately gives a person the worst heartburn of their life.

Since we’ve opened this can of worms concerning the fare, let’s sink our teeth into to it and get down to business. The food at Gringo’s is moderately priced and is really not bad. Is it great? No, but it beats “thinking outside the bun.”

When it comes to combining Mexican and American cuisines, Gringo’s does a number on it. I think it was the “enchilada” that made me really understand what people say is tex-mex. Their enchilada consists of a lightly fried corn tortilla stuffed with cheddar cheese and topped with canned chili and sprinkled with more cheddar. Wow.

The rest of the food is a little more subdued than that, though. The taco is just a taco, nothing more, nothing less. The burrito has iceberg lettuce on it. It is your normal American equivalent to Mexican food. The chile relleno is the aforementioned giant jalapeno popper, which is not unlike those found at America’s favorite drive-in.

Perhaps, I’ve been a little hard on them. Or, perhaps not. Either way, if you are in the area and really feel the urge to stare at stuffed and mounted ducks while eating yellow cheese dip and sipping a mango margarita then head on over to Gringo’s for some chow.

Until next week, good eating to you and yours.

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