Adam & Eats: La Huerta Grill

Editor’s note: Adam Brandt is a graduate from the Cobra Kai School of Culinary Callousness, where he received their highest award, the Red Apron of Merciless Eating. Aside from eating and talking about eating, he makes pots, paintings, prints, books, photographs, and generally, a big mess. He has been the studio assistant at Mudpuppy Pottery for almost nine years and is attending a local university in a desperate attempt to earn a biology degree.

For the past 16 years La Huerta Grill has been filling our bellies with delicious Mexican food and filling our hearts with happiness. Now they have come full circle. Let me explain.

Sixteen years ago, La Huerta Grill opened in the former Taco Mayo/Rollo Pollo location on the corner of Waldron and Rogers Avenues. Since then that building has been demolished and turned into a bank and La Huerta has gone on to open a series of successful Mexican eateries in the River Valley. They just recently opened their newest location in the former Lone Star Steakhouse building, pretty much next door to their original location. I thought it was only appropriate that I give you, the loyal reader, the skinny on their new digs.

The new La Huerta location is sweet. It is a far cry from the dark, cowboy-themed Lone Star it once was. Reasonably well lit, the décor of the new La Huerta is well, think Frank Lloyd Wright and Antonio Gaudi had a love child named Pancho Villa who grew up to be an oil tycoon. (Speaking of oilmen, I saw Russell Hantz, of Survivor fame, last Friday at La Huerta’s Garrison Avenue location.)

Anyway, there are new leather and wicker chairs, hanging lights that look like sombreros, and everything is painted tastefully in the color scheme of a sunset. Plus, the big wigs at La Huerta have cleverly brought in all of the trusty, smiling, loyal waitstaff that we have all come to know and love. (This is my shout out to Alvito, Tito, Juan Manuel, Mikey, Winston, Jaime, Javier, Richard, etc. Keep up the good work guys.)

Now, let’s talk food. If you have eaten at La Huerta before, then you know what the food is like. For some reason, the new location’s food seems to taste even better than normal. Maybe it is because I was excited about the new place. Maybe it is because all of the food is fresh off the truck. Maybe the cooks are re-energized and inspired to make better food. Whatever it is, it rocks.

For those of you who have not eaten at La Huerta, you are in for a treat. Granted, there is quite a bit of Tex in the Mex at La Huerta, so do not go there expecting tacos lingua, or cilantro instead of lechuga, or even a torta. What you can expect is quality food that is made with passion and respect for the ingredients.

If I might make a few recommendations, I would suggest the Quesadilla Fajita, the Sophia Special (2 spinach quesadillas), the Steven Special (cheesy rice and chicken, see the kid’s menu), the Chilaquiles Mexicanos (corn tortillas and chicken in red Ranchero sauce), the Flautas (stuffed and fried flour tortillas), and, everyone’s favorite, the Speedy Gonzales (a taco, an enchilada, and either beans or rice). If you like a little extra heat with dinner, ask for a side of the tomatillo salsa and a side of fried jalapenos. (So spicy, but so good.) If you like Mexican food, then, chances are, you’ll really enjoy La Huerta.

If you haven’t been to the new location, you should go by and check it out. I’m sure the guys will be very happy to see you.

Feedback
When he’s not beating his eggs, Adam makes time to respond to e-mails that get past his hard-ass spam filter. You can try to reach him at [email protected]

Adam also has this thing called Sandwich Control.