Peter recommends doing it the family way

Editor’s note: Peter Lewis, who has authored “The Friday Feast” since November, is reviewing 30 locally-owned and/or operated restaurants across five categories: American, Asian, BBQ, Mexican and Date (establishments to impress your date, spouse or both). Each Wednesday through late August, The City Wire will post Lewis’ review of two restaurants. That’s a review of 30 restaurants in 16 weeks for those keeping score at home.

Week 1: Taqueria la Guadalupana, and Las Americas Too
Week 2: The Cuban Grill and El Rodeo
Week 3: El Milagro and Restaurante Salvadoreno Norita
Week 4: Green Papaya and Pho Vietnam
Week 5: Fried Rice and Pho King
Week 6: Diamond Head 2 and Tran’s
Week 7: Yellow Umbrella and Goodson’s
Week 8: Red Rooster and Boom-A-Rang

review by Peter Lewis

With the raucous and rowdy conviviality’s of the 4th of July in the rear view mirror, we soldier on toward our own freedom. While the holiday weekend celebrations were in exultation of a larger, more abstract concept of freedom, the freedom proffered here is much more personal and direct: freedom from the mass produced, corporate rubbish.  Though this service has been offered for the past few weeks, it merited reiteration in the shadow of such an auspicious holiday.

LEWIS’ FAMILY RESTAURANT
Even though many of the restaurants covered thus far in our series have possessed admirable qualities, none are quite like Lewis’ Family Restaurant (before the accusatory cries of nepotism arise, let me assure you that there is no relation). While my dining experiences at the restaurant have all been positive, this remark on the qualities is meant to cast judgment on the atmosphere, not the food. That particular judgment will soon surface.

What I’m weaving my way towards is that Lewis’ Family Restaurant is exactly what it claims to be: a family restaurant. In a time of misnomers and misrepresentations, it is a refreshing reminder of a lost America. Never one to quibble over the finer points of different eras, visiting Lewis’ was enough for me to pine for the days before fast food. An era of diners, an era where homemade dishes were prepared for the patron specifically and before the “bottom line” became the ruling credo of the industry. Though I am certainly too young to know if it actually existed as I imagine it, the optimist in me wants to say that if something is imaginable then it could have been a reality (or could be again).

Before derailing further into flights of fancy, let us turn back to the specifics of sustenance. First, Lewis’ Family Restaurant is located at the intersection of Zero and 71 South in Fort Smith (the physical address is 5901 U.S. 71 S.).

Second, the food is wonderful. Like the Rooster profiled last week, Lewis’ featured homemade breads. This is always a welcome admission. When combined with a well made hamburger patty, it is a wonder to behold. Heightening the pleasurable dining experience was the unexpectedness. Though certain of the many dishes done with workmanlike charm and aplomb, their burgers were an unknown entity. No longer.

If you’re looking for something beyond a burger, try one of the daily specials. These run the gamut from French Dips to Chicken Fried Steaks. They are always on the cheap side and have yet to disappoint.

HAMBURGER BARN
Harry’s Hamburger Barn, while quite antipodal to Lewis’, is nonetheless an additional testament to the ongoing ingenuity and pride of local restaurateurs. While the latter has a decidedly blue collar feel, Harry’s is rather kitschy. With throwback, almost antique decorations and menu items like “Potato Patch Babies,” the restaurant is high on the sell. This sort of atmosphere usually has me worried. When combined with the open seductiveness of the serving staff’s attire, I was frightfully apprehensive about the meal. What I found, in addition to good food, was yet another lesson in prejudgment: never judge a book by its cover, especially if the cover is low cut and leggy.

First there were the onion rings. These seem to be an item on which the staff prides themselves. Hand cut and battered by the kitchen staff each day, they are as delightful as advertised. Coming from a fellow that normally isn’t one for onion rings, this assessment is an additional compliment to the acumen with which they prepare the treats.

As one might deduce from the name, the real specialty of the house are the burgers.  With titillating titles like Elvis Burger, John Wayne Burger, and Marilyn Burger, there is a combination of sauces and toppings to tickle any taste bud. My own suggestion would be to check out the artisanal Original “Stuffed” Burger. This thick third pounder is shaped by hand and stuffed with swiss cheese, and mushrooms. It takes a bit longer to cook than the rest of the stable, but it’s well worth the wait. Just be careful when taking that first bite, the cheese and ‘shrooms are a bit on the warm side.

Last time I stepped out side, it was still summer. Since summer is certainly hot dog season, you might check out the “Barker Dog,”one-quarter pound all-beef weiner from Nathan’s. As Joey Chestnut proved in that disgusting affair on Coney Island, they are certainly a delicious dog. However, I wouldn’t suggest eating 68 of them. At $5.50 a pop, that would be a bit of pressure on your wallet and would most likely induce an unfortunate “return of goods.”

If you are wanting to stick to something a bit on the lighter side there are many options.  Skip the salad, however, and head straight to the lite beers on draft. At $2.25 per draught, a Shiner Bock is the wiser of choices than the greens for those watching the waistline.

An explainer note from Peter
Having such cultural diversity within easy reach is one of the many dining pleasures in the River Valley. As we continue to explore the different cooking styles throughout the area, I hope it will spur you into trying something new. Broadening horizons is as old as time itself.

You can reach Peter at [email protected]