Peter brings us back to America. And just in time for the Fourth.

Editor’s note: Peter Lewis, who has authored “The Friday Feast” since November, is reviewing 30 locally-owned and/or operated restaurants across five categories: American, Asian, BBQ, Mexican and Date (establishments to impress your date, spouse or both). Each Wednesday through late August, The City Wire will post Lewis’ review of two restaurants. That’s a review of 30 restaurants in 16 weeks for those keeping score at home.

Week 1: Taqueria la Guadalupana, and Las Americas Too
Week 2: The Cuban Grill and El Rodeo
Week 3: El Milagro and Restaurante Salvadoreno Norita
Week 4: Green Papaya and Pho Vietnam
Week 5: Fried Rice and Pho King
Week 6: Diamond Head 2 and Tran’s

review by Peter Lewis

Whether eating grits in Bangkok or noshing on Thai noodles in Dothan, Alabama, every plate has its place. For the past month and a half, we’ve been traversing culinary continents search for the best plates. Now, after six weeks traversing the varied shores of both Asia and Latin America, the dining express will dock in the comforting bay of American fare. 

YELLOW UMBRELLA
The first stop on our docket is The Yellow Umbrella, a whistle stop restaurant at 1608 Greenwood Ave. Though to call it a restaurant might be a bit of an overstatement. The Yellow Umbrella is as much a food stand as anything else. No matter what the hell you call it, they’re still doing things right over there. Long a staple of harried mothers in need of a quick and easy meal fix for their brats on summer break, the Yellow Umbrella has operated for many years and the service is still stellar and the food fine.You’re guaranteed to see a wide swathe of society at this joint, which, in my opinion, is a great sign.

Open Monday through Friday from 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., the Yellow Umbrella is the perfect spot for a beautiful day. There is something reassuring about being able to pull up to this quaint hamburger stand and basking in the sun while you wait on your order (you’ll be even more assured out there on the table once you sink your teeth into your meal). 

First thing is first, the Umbrella advertises “Old Fashioned Hamburgers.” Though I must admit I’m not old enough to know what an old fashioned hamburger is like in comparison to a new fashion one, but the burgers are great. Prices on the burgers run from $2 (Old Fashioned) to $3.50 (double meat with barbecue, bacon, and chili burgers all wedged somewhere in between those two price lines. Cooked on a flat top, the burgers are fairly basic. It’s a no frills burger for a no frills place. When you sit in your car or out in the adjacent sitting area, why would you want a fancy pants burger anyways?

If you’re in the mood for something else, you could try a grilled cheese with bacon (~$1.75). That particular sandwich has been a staple of two good friends for as long as I can remember. I must admit that it is damn tasty. You’ll definitely need a side of fries ($1.50-$2). At the Umbrella they come in a small white wax paper bag and coated in seasoned salt. If I wasn’t such a fan of the shakes ($2.25), I would venture to say that they are the best thing on the menu.

This is just a small sampling of the simple wonders of the Yellow Umbrella. They have frito pies (fritos covered in homemade chili, cheese, lettuce, and tomato for $2.50), hot dogs, sno cones, and sundaes. A veritable plethora of worldly delights to be had.

GOODSON’S
Just a few blocks away from The Yellow Umbrella is a decided contrast to that in-and-out style of American dining. With a more relaxed sit-down familial atmosphere, a diner would not be remiss if they decided to visit either of the Goodson’s locations in Fort Smith (3501 Old Greenwood Road and 5001 Towson Ave.). Mark Goodson knows his way around the restaurant business and it shows in both these establishments (since it would be a bit difficult to spread myself between the two, this portion of the column will be focused on the Old Greenwood Avenue location).

Both beer and wine are offered at Goodson’s at Cornerstone, which is a fine start to a meal. The bottles are basic (Buds, Millers, and Coors), but reasonably priced at $2.50 a bottle.

Though ostensibly featuring American cuisine, Goodson’s features a wide berth of cultures in their menu. Which, though they feature a variety of dishes deriving from many countries, it is still an American restaurant. Paradox? Not quite. It is just an illustration of that great umbrella which is American culture and cuisine.

At $6.25 the grilled chicken sandwich is a miraculous yet simple combination of chicken, bacon, swiss cheese, lettuce, and tomato sitting pretty on a wheat bun. The melding of ingredients is pitch perfect. If you’re looking for something a bit more … meaty, then you should venture over to the Gaulish side of life with a French Dip sandwich. Sliced roast beef on a hoagie bun with a side of delectable dipping juice on the side, ooh la la mon coeur est en feu. Ready for a jaunt to Italy? Try Goodson’s Tortellini ($9.95). This bowl of “cheese filled pasta tossed with mushrooms & sweet onions in a tomato basil cream sauce” is quite the treat.

If you are looking for a bit of roughage to augment your fiber intake, you’d be hard pressed to find a better salad than the Cobb Salad at Goodson’s. With diced turkey and tomatoes, chopped boiled egg and bacon, and augmented with piles of black olives, green onions and two cheeses, you might have a hard time finding that roughage. After a bit of digging, you’ll find it though. Trust me. If you need a bit more green and a bit less of the fun stuff, just stick to the grilled chicken caesar salad. The greens have no place to hide.

An explainer note from Peter
Having such cultural diversity within easy reach is one of the many dining pleasures in the River Valley. As we continue to explore the different cooking styles throughout the area, I hope it will spur you into trying something new. Broadening horizons is as old as time itself.

You can reach Peter at [email protected]