Peter Quixote charges for the taco truck

review and photos by Peter Lewis

After appeals all around, I set out to track down the fabled “taco truck.” Though I wasn’t exactly chasing windmills, my quest was quickly thrown off course. I couldn’t locate the “taco truck,” at least the one I had seen in the past on Greenwood. Despite my inability to locate this taco truck, I forged on, like the famed Cabeza de Vaca, discovering new territories, and have survived to recount the tale. Fortunately, I never once encountered hostile nations, disease or starvation. In fact, I only encountered smiles, sunshine and satiation.

While one might think a place as this exists only in myth (like the famed El Dorado), I have seen the structure with my own eyes. Tucked away in the southwestern corner of a lot located at the intersection of Tilles and Grand Avenues, tiny delights await at this hideaway with no name.

Open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day of the week, you might mistake this casa pequena for a sno-cone stand instead of Senora Rosa’s own tiny taqueria. Furthering confusion are the absences of any signs or menus. Menus or not, I assure you this is an oasis for the adventurous lover of lively larder.

Most taquerias have staples. That is, from one place to the next you know these certain items will always be available. Supplementing these staples are the daily specials. Unfortunately I’ve yet to attain total prescience, therefore I can only be certain that this hideaway with no name will offer the following items (at cut rate prices!): sopes, gorditas, & tacos. This might not seem like much by way of choice to many. Exploit that. What’s more adventurous than trying one of each? It’ll only set you back about $5 for a taco asada (beef taco), a gordita pastor, y un sope pastor. For those uninitiated in the beauties of our southern neighbor’s cuisine: a gordita is a cornmeal pancake of sorts stuffed with meat, sauce, cheese, etc., etc., while a sope is a thick corn tortilla topped with meat, cheese, avocado and peppers.

If we’re all lucky, the rain will hold off this Friday evening and you’ll be able to enjoy your food in a plastic chair while soaking up the fading sunshine. However, if those wacky weathermen are on the mark, you’ll most likely need to retire back to your vehicle to enjoy your meal. Just be sure to pack some quality tunes to accompany the meal. If you really want Tejano-tinged tunes tickling your eardrums while you nosh, may I be bold enough to suggest Doug Sahm?

Follow up this feast with, weather permitting, a stroll down Greenwood from one of the newer additions to the Fort Smith scene to one of oldest: Suzie Q’s. Located at 707 Greenwood, this is a bar with character. With a winning staff, cheap booze, and a jukebox, is there any possible way this good be a questionable decision?

7 out of 10 on the Petermeter Scale of Adventure

COMFORT COUNTY
Not fiending for a fiesta? Want to remain within the confines of a more comforting cuisine? Cruise down to Calico County. Tucked behind Randall Ford, just off Rogers Avenue on 56th Street, this is comfort food to a T. My own recent visit unearthed a plethora of surprises.

Foremost on this list is beer. Please tell me I wasn’t the only person living in fantasy land, silently surviving under the impression that this kitschy kitchen was dry? If you were packed in the same delusional dingy as me, rejoice and order a cold bottle of Budweiser … always Budweiser. Oddly enough, they are either very under trained as beer servers, or are quite concerned about hygiene … all beers are served unopened. Dismiss this, however, you know damn well how to open a beer.

Surrounded by an ocean of pop art, tchotchkes, and other remnants of a bygone era, it is easy to get lost in thought, wondering, “where on earth did all this stuff come from?” Try to remain focused on the menu, or at the very least, on the complementary cinnamon rolls they bring out.

Whilst dining in a restaurant largely devoted to comfort foods, it is oftentimes difficult to order reasonably. Calico County has fortuitously given the concerned diner a variety of options. My own suggestion would be to try out the grilled chicken tenders. They are escorted by two side items so you’d be a fool to pass on the chance to have fried okra and mac n’ cheese.

The letter has seen you through the night thus far so continue the trend. Head down to Ranch Gall …, I mean, Bombay Billiard’s to check out the energetic and enlightening intonations of Copesetic. Show time is 10 p.m., and there isn’t a cover. So, sidle up to the bar, give Ms. Webb a grin and politely ask for a gin & tonic. It’s one of those nights, I’m afraid. Beverage in hand, stake out a spot and cross your fingers that the boys in the band will play “The Shape I’m In,” or some such gem by The Band.

6 out of 10 on the Petermeter Scale of Adventure

Know your Peter
Born and raised in Fort Smith, Peter Lewis is a graduate of the University of Texas. Prior to returning to the Fort Smith area, Peter spent the a year as a bartender living abroad and traveling. He’s also a frequent contributor to Half Broke Hotel. There was a time Peter believed in the Easter Bunny, but now he prefers the Easter Bunny prepared with a white wine sauce, served with steamed asparagus and wild rice.

Contact Peter at [email protected]