The menu this week includes careful avoidance of the “F” word

story and photos by Peter Lewis

As I have mentioned before in this humble column dedicated to culinary adventure (and through that, adventurous living), there are few strictly national Asian cuisines. 

Though this is due in part to geography, much of the dual nation restaurant cuisine is based in a desire by the proprietors to appeal to the largest base. Given the long history of Chinese people in America, it is what would be considered a “safe” food by mainstream America. While we have a large population of southeast Asians in the River Valley, the Chinese population is not near as significant. So rather than sit idly by and hope  for customers, owners of Vietnamese and Thai establish here in town dutifully tack on a dual label in the hope of drawing as much patronage as possible.

While there are large differences between every restaurant in town, I try to differentiate my dining choices based on where I happen to be dining. Given the wide appeal, there are certain restaurants that are generally geared more towards serving Chinese cuisine despite not themselves being Chinese. There of course is nothing wrong with this. Any person can choose to serve the cuisine of their choice. And if it’s good, I’ll find them. What I’m aiming for is that old “when in Rome” maxim. So, I tend to order the “natural” strengths of the given restaurant as I see it.

SAY IT YOUR WAY
As a result, when I visit a wonderful establishment such as Phở King (located on the 1300 block of Waldron), I tend to avoid dishes like “General Tso’s Chicken.” Instead, my stomach tends to focus on the great Vietnamese dishes served there, like the titled Phở.

Before we go any further, we should address the issue of the restaurant’s name. Since the proper pronunciation of “Phở” is “fuh,” an astute reader might have already noticed that when saying the full restaurant name, there is the distinct possibility of sliding down the slippery slope of proper pronunciation and falling smack dab into a big puddle of curse. Now, my aim is not to offend genteel readers of this fine online publication, just to give correct speech it’s proper due. Pronounce as you wish, but if you’re a stickler for properness (and not propriety), just be conscientious of the company that you’re around when you opt for that correct pronunciation.

Now that we have ventured four paragraphs deep into the Feast, it is time to discuss the most important matters: food and beverage. Since we have such a genteel society in the River Valley, alcoholic beverages are unfortunately not served at this particular establishment (just as they aren’t at so many other locally owned restaurants in the area). Instead, you might try a fresh squeezed lemonade. Or, if you are particularly adventurous, the Vietnamese soy milk drink. You’ll be hard pressed to find a more unique quaff to begin your evening.

With all the entrees falling beneath Mr. Jackson’s nose, it’s certainly hard to quibble with the cost. To top it all off, there are several (inexpensive) options for  appetizers as well.  First thing is first. Order a round of spring rolls to start the meal. Follow that up by ordering a crispy noodle dish. Take your pick of meats. I’m particularly fond of the beef (MX2). Initially, I was somewhat perplexed on how best to proceed without cracking the edges of the pasta all over the place. Fortunately for me and my guests, pasta wasn’t flying around the restaurant. At least not far enough to put any eyes out. The most interesting element of the dish is how much the pasta softens sitting in a small puddle of sauce and topped with a bed of delicious vegetables.

While I preferred the option of having hard noodle, there are plenty who would prefer their noodles to be soft in its entirety.  If this be true for you, my genteel reader, then I suggest trying some of their various stir fry options with vermicelli noodles. They are a treat as well, though much softer and less apt to fly off into space during your meal.

Noodles nicely nestled near your navel, knock off to TGI Friday’s. It’s just around the corner at 6201 Rogers Ave. Why not kick back a few cold Buds at the bar and watch some hoops? It’s March, after all, and there are a slate of games scheduled for Friday evening. So go ahead, get a bit knackered, yell at the refs, and as always, tip favorably.

5 out of 10 on the Petermeter Scale of Adventure

PAPA’S AND PRINCE
Not feeling the fine fare of Vietnam? Two words: Pizza. If you recall, just last week I suggested paying a visit to the good folks at Gregorio’s for a doughy pleasure. This week is more pizza but from the opposite end of the spectrum: Papa’s Pub and Pizzaria (their spelling mistake, not mine)

Most pies pale in comparison to those at Papa’s. They look like Gary Coleman standing next to George Foreman. The pizza is robust — deep, thick, and exploding with toppings. Girthy almost to a fault, they are in essence a meal a slice. Try out a specialty pie like the Combination. Topped with sausage, beef, pepperoni, mushroom, black olive, purple onion, bell pepper, every ingredient is integral to creating the festive fete that occurs in your mouth with each bite ($10.95/medium, $12.95/large).

After pizza, why not cruise down the avenue to Landry’s? I’ve said it once and I’ll say again: They have the best beer selection in town. The competition is nowhere close. Go out on a limb there, try the Hobgoblin by Wychwood and take in the tunes. The Crumbs will be laying down their unique brand of River Valley bluegrass. If you’re lucky, they might even let you hear their cover of Purple Rain by that infamous symbol from the north country, Prince.

6 out of 10 on the Petermeter Scale of Adventure

Know your Peter
Born and raised in Fort Smith, Peter Lewis is a graduate of the University of Texas. Prior to returning to the Fort Smith area, Peter spent the a year as a bartender living abroad and traveling. And about his recent trip to Austin for a music festival, The City Wire plans on seeking federal stimulus funds to help pay the court costs.

Contact Peter at [email protected]