Order the cow’s tongue taco for some great tongue-on-tongue action

review and photos by Peter Lewis

Perhaps it is simply the manifestation of my longing for the delights of Austin, but when Friday evening rolls around you should take a visit to Taqueria El Milagro (I have to admit I’m a little confused by the name … I was told alternately that it was “Tacos Al Vapor”).

Located at the Midland Triangle — the convergence of North 10th, North 11th, and Midland Blvd. — this small eatery was opened by Amadeo and Estela Hernandez about four months ago. It is filled with charm to spare and dishes to please even a fickle foodie.

A visit to Taqueria El Milagro would be incomplete with out trying a raspado. To label this simply as “shaved ice” or a “snow-cone” is very misleading. And furthermore, like my father is fond of saying, “damning it with faint praise.” The raspados at El Milagro are unlike anything else I’ve sampled (see picture w/goofy friend for proof). There are a number of flavors available for consumption. My own small raspado ($2) was mango. It was filled not only with the expected mango juice over ice but also freshly sliced mango  pieces as well. Since your quaff is filled with fruit chunks, you’re given a drain pipe for a straw — by far the largest straw I’ve seen. For an extra sweet kick, ask the young Isamar at the counter to add “sweet milk” to your raspado.

With your beverage ordered, now we should focus on our meal. 

There are countless meat-based dishes (i.e., carne asada, countless taco variations) at Taqueria El Milagro. However, for the carnivorous folks seeking sustenance, there is only one item on the menu: Tortas cubanas ($6.99).

First, let’s define the tasty treat that is the torta. Some might simply define it as a “Mexican sandwich,” but that particular definition is a bit lacking. Though the idea of a sandwich might be simple, this particular sandwich is not. Two thick slices of bread are placed on the grill to toast, slathered with beans & cheese. Now the game begins. Piled high on the bread is a pig’s nightmare: sausage, ham, & chunks of sausage.

Now I am well aware my own personal choices are not for everyone. Luckily, I have friends with palates akin to a fussy toddler’s and have particular insight into any qualms you might have with eating lengua tacos (cow tongue tacos) or even chicharones (fried pork fat). So, for those who want something a little more mainstream, the quesadillas at El Milagro are dynamic ($7 for a large). There are two sizes. Be forewarned, the large is indeed quite a meal. I’ll leave the filling up to you because I’ve sampled cheese, beef, and chicken. All were tasty. In fact, while he plowed into his beef quesadilla, my dear friend on the force exclaimed, “this is the best quesadilla I’ve ever had.”

After dinner, hook a left back towards downtown on 10th Street. Landry’s will be the place to be with great music once again. This week it will be courtesy of the guitar impresario Gary Hutchinson (Oreo Blue) and John Magness. It is sure to be crowded but there are always a few bar spots available in the back. So saddle up and swig some suds. For a real delight, make like Poirot and order a Duvel, the devastatingly delightful Belgian brew.

7 out of 10 on the Petermeter Scale of Adventure

KEEP IT SIMPLE: PIZZA
If you are seeking something a little more low key for your Friday evening, how could you err with pizza? Though the choices for great pizza are unfortunately slim in comparison to larger cities like New York or Chicago, the River Valley still has numerous pie shops that will put a satisfied smile on your face.

One such establishment I erroneously assumed had succumbed to the fate of so may other great restaurants.  Luckily I was mistaken and the good guys at Gregorio’s are still baking their signature pizzas at 4300 Rogers Ave, in Green Pointe.

For those a bit averse to pizzas slathered in marinara, Gregorio’s is the place for you. Their signature “white pizzas” are a treat to behold. Toppings are, as always, a very contentious matter. Give way to the old adage that Mr. Jimmy Buffett relayed to us in his paean to an uncomplicated life, “keep it simple stupid.”  He knew that all we really need is a large pepperoni pizza (or was it six-string music?) from a Gregorio’s oven.

After you’ve polished off the white delight, why don’t you cruise over to the Carmike at 5716 Towson Ave. What goes together better than pizza and a movie? Do your part to help stimulate the economy. Lord knows they need your business. You can catch Paul Rudd (Knocked Up) and Jason Segel (How I Met Your Mother) in the comedy “bromance” at 8:10 p.m. What’s better than performing a civic duty and getting a few laughs in return? A good night kiss from your date. Count it.

4 out of 10 on the Petermeter Scale of Adventure

Know your Peter
Born and raised in Fort Smith, Peter Lewis is a graduate of the University of Texas. Prior to returning to the Fort Smith area, Peter spent the a year as a bartender living abroad and traveling. Or maybe he spent the year living with a Broad until she sent him traveling.

Contact Peter at [email protected]