Dumplings, pasta and buttered bread. Bring your own Lipitor.

review and photos by Peter Lewis

Restaurants have a tendency to caricaturize ethnic foods, transforming our dining options beyond recognition of their true selves. This transformation from X to Y usually occurs in “mainstream” ethnic food, which is to say those that are greatest in the collective conscious (Italian, Chinese, and Mexican food all jump quickly to mind).

There are many instances of this phenomenon that I cannot stomach (both literally and figuratively). However, this is not always inherently negative. In truth these sorts of establishments almost become a sort of cultural “comfort” food. Nothing says a movie in quite like pizza or some sweet & sour chicken.

Given the demographics of our fine community, many of our “Chinese” restaurants are actually Vietnamese restaurants that feature items we’ve come to expect in Chinese restaurants.

CHINESE CHEF
Thanks to the folks behind Chef Lee we have a truly great Chinese restaurant in Fort Smith. Located at 2503 Market Trace just next to the Harps in the shopping center at the bottom of Fianna Hills, it is a great way to begin a Friday night.

The best way to start at Chef Lee is with an order of steamed dumplings (6 for $4.25 ). These hand rolled gems offer a warm gift within their yielding and doughy outer shells. With such a large menu, there are any number of delicacies from which to choose on your evening out. Mr. Alexander Hamilton will be able to procure any of the entrees for you ($6-$10). What to pick? Sesame Chicken (chef special $9.95) is always a commendable choice. If you are one of those fabled few who perhaps eschew our lovely friend the yardbird, then I’d suggest the Mongolian Beef ($9.75). No matter what you end up choosing, your servings are guaranteed to be large, the food fresh, and the service full of smiles.

The bill handled and your generous tip resting on the table, head out the door for the nearest watering hole. Praise be to Thor for his generosity of spirit; a bar sits across the street. No need to rattle the car keys, just go ahead and hoof it over to Brannon’s Pub & Grill. Trust me, you need it. Friday night you’ll be able to catch a glimpse of the wonderfully talented, Larry B. He is set to be singing the night away. Go join him.

Good food and a nearby bar garners a 6 out of 10 on the Petermeter.

ITALIAN TRUCK STOP
For those who perhaps want to try some European comfort food, or just want to hang out in Crawford County, check out Frank’s Italian Restaurant & Grill located at 1906 Fayetteville Road.

This establishment highlights exactly why these restaurants are so prevalent. They are easily imitated, no matter your ethnicity. For it was in the midst of my exhausting research that multiple things were revealed. First, Frank’s seems to be a cousin restaurant to Joe’s Pizza & Pasta in Fort Smith. Second, the owner’s name is actually Anthony. The restaurant was so named as an homage to Anthony’s father, Frank, who, as it turns out owns an Italian restaurant himself.

The location of Frank’s restaurant is the only obstacle for any adventurous folks wanting to accomplish an Italian trifecta. It seems that Frank’s restaurant is located in the land of Woodrow Wilson lovers, the once cloistered yet undeniably beautiful, Albania. So, for now at least, settle for Frank’s namesake establishment in Van Buren on your evening out and save the actual Frank’s for a nice summer jaunt through the lower Balkans at a later date.

Frank’s seems to get busy early so plan accordingly. It also might be wise to bring along someone in the medical profession. While tasty, the food unfortunately reaches that plateau through generous use of those beautiful artery cloggers: butter, cheese, and oil. Each meal begins with a basket of lathered Italian bread and a side of olive oil (for further lathering of course).

The wait staff are all quite helpful and easy to engage in conversation. Take the opportunity to practice the lost art of small talk, pepper them with any questions you might have, then take the plunge. All the staples of Italian dining are on the menu, as well as a slew of pizzas, subs and seafood options. I’d suggest ordering one of their pasta plates. Their pasta sampler and pasta trio plates offer a chance to sample three different pastas at the reasonable price of $8.95 (all other regular pasta dishes are $7.95). Most all dinner items are quite rich as well as being heavy on the stomach. If you are seeking something a bit lighter, then a salad like the Capriso will be your only option ($7.95)

If your arteries are willing then I’d suggest getting a cannoli for dessert. You may or mayn’t make it through the night, much less to the bar after dinner.

If able, head to Fort Smith to check out the music of the Truck Stop Poets. Let Will Mendenhall’s soulful voice lead you down the path towards some true Americana music. Show begins at 7 p.m., Friday (Mar. 6) at Landry’s, and with any luck will be rolling until at least 10’ish. So, buy a few cold Anchor Steams for you and your pals and let the evening drift on past.

This trip rates a 4 out of 10 on the Petermeter.

Know your Peter
Born and raised in Fort Smith, Peter Lewis is a graduate of the University of Texas. Prior to returning to the Fort Smith area, Peter spent the past year as a bartender living abroad and traveling. He never bares his chest for beads, just dollars.

Contact Peter at [email protected]