Although longing for Tex-Mex, Indian cuisine soothes a sore Peter

story and photos by Peter Lewis

For the better portion of the past seven years your enterprisingly earnest epicurean existed in an epicenter of delectable dietary delights. That is to say, I lived in Austin, a fabled city of songs, springs, and succulent sustenance — though the breadth of the city’s culinary gems knows no ethnic bounds.

Despite this eclecticism it is most known for a certain style of food labeled as Tex-Mex. Though the name is a broad statement, and can often be a misnomer when speaking of certain dishes or establishments, it is an adequate enough description of the particular style of cooking I love.

At one point in my young life I found myself in a place without an adequate source of Hispanic food. Despite the struggle I was able to survive for almost six months without a breakfast taco of any sort. What helped me more than anything was the discovery of Indian food.

Growing up in Fort Smith I was never privy to the pleasing products of Punjab or the rest of the Sub-continent. After I left home for college I was able to try a few Indian restaurants but to my detriment largely dismissed them. Unable to eat Mexican food, I began to lean on Indian cuisine. I began to jokingly refer to it as “my Mexican methadone” (naturally this passing statement was usually met with strange looks).

Smooth as …
Upon moving home to Fort Smith I despaired at not having an Indian restaurant in the area to patronize. Just as I grew resigned to this fact I caught wind of an establishment in the Green Point shopping plaza on the 4300 block of Rogers Avenue.

Though not an exclusively Indian restaurant, Silk Road Grill instead promises an amalgamation of cuisines, from the Mediterranean to India. Despite the implication of the name(s), the menu is largely focused on foods from Northern Africa, the Middle East and India.

After such an introduction it seems best to start with a potential drawback to the establishment: no booze. Rest assured however that this drawback is quite slight. Once the naan (soft pita like bread served with meals) arrives, you’ll forget about any ales and focus instead on this delectable tandoori bread in front of you. Though many dishes are available to catch your eye and tie your tongue, go forth with the chicken karahi ($7.95). This dish cooked in a wok like pan is a melange of spices, chile peppers, and of course the chicken.

For desert you could always try a baklava but as a change of pace, order a tea. With a diverse offering of teas from which to choose, there is sure to be one to your liking. Furthermore, that extra jolt of caffeine will help propel you through the remainder of your evening.

Keeping with the subcontinental theme, make your way west down Rogers Avenue. Take the Garrison split to Ranch Gallery Furniture at 509 Garrison. Before the question marks cloud your mind, don’t let the sign fool you. In reality it is the Bombay Billiard Club. Until the old awning comes down and a sign is erected, I’m going to keep calling it Ranch Gallery Furniture. Remember, confusion, like the alcohol served at this particular establishment, is a great conversation stimulator.

Despite the absence of a correct awning, Bombay is a great establishment. Ironically, the best part about the club is the furniture. The décor is tastefully understated and as the name implies, there is pool a plenty at Bombay. Grab a bourbon on the rocks, chalk up your cue, and make like the Baltimore Bullet for a few rounds.

Adventure: 8 out of 10
(Bar/Food) Quality/Taste: 6 out of 10

Downtown chic
While some may wander down the Silk Road, others would rather choose to dine elsewhere. If something a bit tamer is what you seek, try the nosh at La Huerta. Located at 4th and Garrison, this restaurant is a hopping spot, the patio especially in the warmer months. While the weather is reputed to be warm this Friday, keep to the inside and steady yourself with a few Modelo Especials.

When it comes time to decide on your particular choice of meal for the evening, it is unfortunately difficult to get too adventurous. While there are plenty of Hispanic restaurants to choose from in our fair city, most — La Huerta included — offer rather tepid food choices that rarely venture past customary fare like the enchiladas, fajitas, and tacos Americans now adore. Despite this, a little adventure can be had with the chilaquiles. This is one of the many reasonably priced ($10 or less) entrees offered by La Huerta. This enticing treat is somewhat akin to nachos.Tortillas triangles are fried and then topped with chicken, cheese, and a verde sauce.

Knock back a shot of Hornitos tequila before walking down the avenue two blocks to Papa’s Pub & Pizzeria. This happening bar usually has a nice crowd most nights. Careful not to jostle your fellow patrons, slide up to the bar and honor Harry Caray with a cold bottle of Budweiser.

While some might choose a game of pool or perhaps desire to recline in a booth, politely decline both and set up shop at the shuffleboard table. This underrated game is just the right counterpart to good friends and cold Bud. As you manipulate the board with the Santa Anita curve, don’t forget to toast the heavens in thanks for this wonderful bar game.

Adventure: 6 out of 10
Quality: 4 out of 10

Know your Peter
Born and raised in Fort Smith, Peter Lewis is a graduate of the University of Texas. Prior to returning to the Fort Smith area, Peter spent the past year as a bartender living abroad and traveling. Even without the threat of waterboarding, he freely admits that Rick Danko is his favorite Canadian of all time.